From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Center Pivot Irrigation in Saudi Arabia is typical of many isolated irrigation projects scattered throughout the arid and hyper-arid regions of the Earth. Fossil water is mined from depths as great as 1 km (3,000 ft), pumped to the surface, and distributed via large center pivot irrigation feeds. The circles of green irrigated vegetation may comprise a variety of agricultural commodities from alfalfa to wheat. Diameters of the normally circular fields range from a few hundred meters to as much as 3 km (2 miles). The projects often trace out a narrow, sinuous, and seemingly random path. Actually, engineers generally seek ancient river channels now buried by the sand seas. The fossil waters mined in these projects accumulated during periods of wetter climate in the Pleistocene glacial epochs, between 10,000 to 2 million years ago, and are not being replenished under current climatic conditions. The projects, therefore, will have limited production as the reservoirs are drained. Water, of course, is the key to agriculture in Saudi Arabia. The Kingdom has implemented a multifaceted program to provide the vast supplies of water necessary to achieve the spectacular growth of the agricultural sector. A network of dams has been built to trap and utilize precious seasonal floods. Vast underground water reservoirs have been tapped through deep wells. Desalination plants have been built to produce fresh water from the sea for urban and industrial use, thereby freeing other sources for agriculture. Facilities have also been put into place to treat urban and industrial run-off for agricultural irrigation. These efforts collectively have helped transform vast tracts of the desert into fertile farmland. Land under cultivation has grown from under 400,000 acres (1600 km²) in 1976 to more than 8 million acres (32,000 km²) in 1993.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Vegetarian Recipes for Kids
Making Sure They Get the Nutrition They Need
© Denise Oliveri
Jun 8, 2007
Here are some super easy and yummy tasting recipes for your vegetarian child.
If your child is trying out what it is like to be vegetarian, here is some information that you might be interested in reading about.
If you are a vegetarian family and just want some simple and nutritious recipes to make sure your child is getting all of her nutrients, here are some super easy recipes.
Staples that you should keep in your kitchen include:
Nuts
Beans
Eggs
Soybeans
Tofu
Veggie burgers
Always have a fresh supply of your child's favorite:
Fruits
Vegetables
100% fruit juices
Apple Sauce
Ingredients:
2 small red apples
2 tbsp. lemon juice
2 tsp. sugar
2 pinches of cinnamon
Directions:
Peel the apples and cut them into small pieces. Throw out the core.
Put the apple pieces and lemon juice into the blender or food processor. Blend until the mixture is very smooth.
Pour the mixture into two small bowls and stir in the sugar and cinnamon.
Frozen Yogurt Pops
Ingredients:
Favorite flavor of yogurt
Directions:
Spoon yogurt into ice cube trays.
Cover the ice cube tray with plastic wrap.
Place a toothpick in the center of each cube by piercing a hole in the plastic wrap.
Freeze for about 2 hours.
Veggie Pizza
Ingredients:
Bagel (not frozen), cut in half
Tomato sauce
Shredded mozzarella cheese
Toppings (whatever you like)
Seasonings like oregano, basil, and pepper
Directions:
Preheat oven to 300 degrees F, or use a toaster oven.
Spread tomato sauce on each bagel half.
Sprinkle the cheese all over the tomato sauce on each half.
Add your favorite toppings.
Put a light sprinkling of seasonings on each half.
Place the bagel halves into the oven (or toaster oven) and bake for about 6 minutes. They are ready when the cheese is bubbly.
Banana Peanut Butter Sandwich
Ingredients:
1 small banana
Smooth peanut butter
2 slices of whole wheat or calcium-enriched bread
Directions:
Spread peanut butter on both halves of the bread.
Slice the banana and place the slices on one half of the bread right on top of the peanut butter.
Place the other slice of bread on top of the bananas, with the peanut butter facing down.
Variation: You can substitute raspberries, strawberries, or blueberries for the bananas.
French Toast
Ingredients:
3 cups sliced bananas (about 2 large)
3 cups soymilk
1-1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon of vanilla extract
12 slices bread
Maple syrup
Directions:
Mix together the bananas, soymilk, cinnamon and vanilla.
Pour into a pie plate.
Dip slices of bread into batter.
Fry in a skillet until slightly golden. Make sure that there is plenty of oil so the bread will not stick to the pan.
Serve with maple syrup.
Legos
Ingredients:
Graham crackers
Pretzels
Icing (different flavors and/or colors)
Peanut butter
Dried fruit and nuts
Directions:
Break up graham crackers and pretzels in different sizes.
Have them use the icing and peanut as "glue" and the graham cracker and pretzel pieces as Legos.
Let them decorate with a variety of dried fruits and nuts
© Denise Oliveri
Jun 8, 2007
Here are some super easy and yummy tasting recipes for your vegetarian child.
If your child is trying out what it is like to be vegetarian, here is some information that you might be interested in reading about.
If you are a vegetarian family and just want some simple and nutritious recipes to make sure your child is getting all of her nutrients, here are some super easy recipes.
Staples that you should keep in your kitchen include:
Nuts
Beans
Eggs
Soybeans
Tofu
Veggie burgers
Always have a fresh supply of your child's favorite:
Fruits
Vegetables
100% fruit juices
Apple Sauce
Ingredients:
2 small red apples
2 tbsp. lemon juice
2 tsp. sugar
2 pinches of cinnamon
Directions:
Peel the apples and cut them into small pieces. Throw out the core.
Put the apple pieces and lemon juice into the blender or food processor. Blend until the mixture is very smooth.
Pour the mixture into two small bowls and stir in the sugar and cinnamon.
Frozen Yogurt Pops
Ingredients:
Favorite flavor of yogurt
Directions:
Spoon yogurt into ice cube trays.
Cover the ice cube tray with plastic wrap.
Place a toothpick in the center of each cube by piercing a hole in the plastic wrap.
Freeze for about 2 hours.
Veggie Pizza
Ingredients:
Bagel (not frozen), cut in half
Tomato sauce
Shredded mozzarella cheese
Toppings (whatever you like)
Seasonings like oregano, basil, and pepper
Directions:
Preheat oven to 300 degrees F, or use a toaster oven.
Spread tomato sauce on each bagel half.
Sprinkle the cheese all over the tomato sauce on each half.
Add your favorite toppings.
Put a light sprinkling of seasonings on each half.
Place the bagel halves into the oven (or toaster oven) and bake for about 6 minutes. They are ready when the cheese is bubbly.
Banana Peanut Butter Sandwich
Ingredients:
1 small banana
Smooth peanut butter
2 slices of whole wheat or calcium-enriched bread
Directions:
Spread peanut butter on both halves of the bread.
Slice the banana and place the slices on one half of the bread right on top of the peanut butter.
Place the other slice of bread on top of the bananas, with the peanut butter facing down.
Variation: You can substitute raspberries, strawberries, or blueberries for the bananas.
French Toast
Ingredients:
3 cups sliced bananas (about 2 large)
3 cups soymilk
1-1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon of vanilla extract
12 slices bread
Maple syrup
Directions:
Mix together the bananas, soymilk, cinnamon and vanilla.
Pour into a pie plate.
Dip slices of bread into batter.
Fry in a skillet until slightly golden. Make sure that there is plenty of oil so the bread will not stick to the pan.
Serve with maple syrup.
Legos
Ingredients:
Graham crackers
Pretzels
Icing (different flavors and/or colors)
Peanut butter
Dried fruit and nuts
Directions:
Break up graham crackers and pretzels in different sizes.
Have them use the icing and peanut as "glue" and the graham cracker and pretzel pieces as Legos.
Let them decorate with a variety of dried fruits and nuts
Monday, November 26, 2007
Flower Garden Basics
Practical Tips on How to Start A Flower Bed From Scratch Begin with Site Selection Soil Preparation and Design
© Barbara M. Martin
Mar 24, 2006
How to start your new flower bed or flower garden. Simple overview of flower garden basics to help you start out right: where to put it, soil preparation, style and size.
Beginning a first flower garden or a new flower bed can be a little daunting, but it is also exciting and always an adventure. Here is a quick rundown of practical how to tips on where to put it and how to begin. (Check my quick and dirty Landscape 101 for an overview on where to put a flower bed.) Each topic includes a link to more detail such as how to select the site for your flower garden, prepare the soil for planting your flowers, flower garden design, and selecting and planting your flowers in more detail.
A Sunny Spot is Best
For your first beginning flower garden, pick a spot that is in full direct sun. It should be sunny all day long or for at least half the day including noontime. Shady gardens can be terrific, but for a first garden with lots of flowers, a sunnier spot is better. More on Sun and Shade Conditions
Flat Ground is Easy to Garden
For a beginning gardener, flat ground is best because it is the easiest to work on. A slight slope will do fine, too, although the steeper it is the more difficult it is to garden on. A steep hillside is challenging. More on Garden Site Selection
Remove Grass, Sod or Weeds First
First, remove any existing grass or weeds including the roots. The more thoroughly you do this chore now, the better your results will be later. You can dig it out by hand or use a sod cutter; smother it with cardboard or newspaper topped with mulch over several months' time; or use an herbicide. If you use weed killer, be sure to read and carefully follow ALL of the label directions. More on Clearing A Flower Bed
Amend Soil: Add Organic Matter
Next, loosen the soil and mix organic matter into it. Organic matter is a catchall term for decomposed materials such as compost, old rotten leaves, well aged stable manure/bedding, spent mushroom soil, or whatever materials you have available locally at reasonable cost. More on Adding Organic Matter
What Size Flower Bed is Best?
Size does matter, and bigger is not always better. For a first flower garden I suggest starting on the small side. This way you are less likely to become overwhelmed by the preparation phase and won't be swamped by the maintenance as the season progresses. You can always build on your success and expand it later!
See Landscape Design 101 specifically for flower gardeners for help in deciding what size would be most appropriate and where to put the flower bed so it is integrated into the rest of your landscape.
Flower Garden Style
Meanwhile, think about how you want your flower garden to look. Do you like a formal or informal style? What color(s) do you like? What mood? What kind of backdrop will it have? More on How to Design With Confidence
Selecting Flowers to Grow
What should I plant? This is the big question and every gardener will have their own personal answer to it, depending on the growing conditions where the garden is and other practical considerations, plus the style of garden, and of course based on personal taste.
It's always fun to select the flowers for the garden, plant them and watch them grow. You'll have the best chance for success if you start by understanding the concept of Right Plant, Right Place and select plants accordingly. More on Right Plant, Right Place
Reality Check
Equally important, how much time do you have weekly to spend on maintaining your flowers? (Even low maintenance plantings require regular care.) Will you have help? What is your budget?
If you are just starting out on your very first flower garden, a modest sized flower bed is probably better than too big. An area about three or four feet wide and eight or ten feet long is manageable yet will give you lots of room to play with. You can see what works well for you and what doesn't and then build on that knowledge and experience later. More on Flower Garden Design with lots of ideas.
Have Fun!
I love growing flowers and flower gardening. It is so much fun, it can even become addictive. It's even good exercise. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Be sure to follow the above links to more practical tips and information about each subject and also check out All Flower Gardens Articles So Far -- I'm adding more all the time. Happy Flower Gardening!
All Flower Gardens Articles So Far
Copyright 2006 Barbara M. Martin
© Barbara M. Martin
Mar 24, 2006
How to start your new flower bed or flower garden. Simple overview of flower garden basics to help you start out right: where to put it, soil preparation, style and size.
Beginning a first flower garden or a new flower bed can be a little daunting, but it is also exciting and always an adventure. Here is a quick rundown of practical how to tips on where to put it and how to begin. (Check my quick and dirty Landscape 101 for an overview on where to put a flower bed.) Each topic includes a link to more detail such as how to select the site for your flower garden, prepare the soil for planting your flowers, flower garden design, and selecting and planting your flowers in more detail.
A Sunny Spot is Best
For your first beginning flower garden, pick a spot that is in full direct sun. It should be sunny all day long or for at least half the day including noontime. Shady gardens can be terrific, but for a first garden with lots of flowers, a sunnier spot is better. More on Sun and Shade Conditions
Flat Ground is Easy to Garden
For a beginning gardener, flat ground is best because it is the easiest to work on. A slight slope will do fine, too, although the steeper it is the more difficult it is to garden on. A steep hillside is challenging. More on Garden Site Selection
Remove Grass, Sod or Weeds First
First, remove any existing grass or weeds including the roots. The more thoroughly you do this chore now, the better your results will be later. You can dig it out by hand or use a sod cutter; smother it with cardboard or newspaper topped with mulch over several months' time; or use an herbicide. If you use weed killer, be sure to read and carefully follow ALL of the label directions. More on Clearing A Flower Bed
Amend Soil: Add Organic Matter
Next, loosen the soil and mix organic matter into it. Organic matter is a catchall term for decomposed materials such as compost, old rotten leaves, well aged stable manure/bedding, spent mushroom soil, or whatever materials you have available locally at reasonable cost. More on Adding Organic Matter
What Size Flower Bed is Best?
Size does matter, and bigger is not always better. For a first flower garden I suggest starting on the small side. This way you are less likely to become overwhelmed by the preparation phase and won't be swamped by the maintenance as the season progresses. You can always build on your success and expand it later!
See Landscape Design 101 specifically for flower gardeners for help in deciding what size would be most appropriate and where to put the flower bed so it is integrated into the rest of your landscape.
Flower Garden Style
Meanwhile, think about how you want your flower garden to look. Do you like a formal or informal style? What color(s) do you like? What mood? What kind of backdrop will it have? More on How to Design With Confidence
Selecting Flowers to Grow
What should I plant? This is the big question and every gardener will have their own personal answer to it, depending on the growing conditions where the garden is and other practical considerations, plus the style of garden, and of course based on personal taste.
It's always fun to select the flowers for the garden, plant them and watch them grow. You'll have the best chance for success if you start by understanding the concept of Right Plant, Right Place and select plants accordingly. More on Right Plant, Right Place
Reality Check
Equally important, how much time do you have weekly to spend on maintaining your flowers? (Even low maintenance plantings require regular care.) Will you have help? What is your budget?
If you are just starting out on your very first flower garden, a modest sized flower bed is probably better than too big. An area about three or four feet wide and eight or ten feet long is manageable yet will give you lots of room to play with. You can see what works well for you and what doesn't and then build on that knowledge and experience later. More on Flower Garden Design with lots of ideas.
Have Fun!
I love growing flowers and flower gardening. It is so much fun, it can even become addictive. It's even good exercise. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do. Be sure to follow the above links to more practical tips and information about each subject and also check out All Flower Gardens Articles So Far -- I'm adding more all the time. Happy Flower Gardening!
All Flower Gardens Articles So Far
Copyright 2006 Barbara M. Martin
Gardening Seed Starting Choices
How to Get Plants Off to a Healthy Beginning
© Christopher J. Kline
Oct 5, 2007
With all of the advantages from starting beautiful gardens from seed it is no wonder that more gardeners are using seeds to start plants.
There is something inherently satisfying about facilitating the miracle of nature that occurs when a plant is born from seed.
Selecting a Propagation Location
The first consideration is to select a good location for seed propagation. The following factors should be considered:
Light – Once the seeds have germinated, the sprouts of most plant varieties need medium to high light in order to develop properly. If the light is too low the sprouts will become lanky which produces weak plants. Some gardeners prefer to start their seeds in a garage, greenhouse or other inside area with an artificial light source. The best alternative is to start your seeds in a greenhouse. Most greenhouses can provide ample, but slightly filtered light that is ideal for seed starting. In hot climates direct sunlight may be too intense for some seed starts to handle until the plants get their second set of leaves.
Exposure to the Elements - Seeds and young plants are particularly susceptible to damage from the environment. This includes damage caused by rodents, birds and pests as well as inclement weather. Because of this it is generally best to find a sheltered area, or start the seeds indoors. Greenhouse enthusiasts have an advantage here as well.
Temperature and Humidity - Most seeds germinate when the soil temperature is between 68 and 86°F. Depending on the soil temperature where seeds are germinated it may be advantageous to use an inexpensive soil heating cable or electric seed warming trays for starting seeds. Seeds need moist soil to germinate and the young seedlings benefit from humid conditions. Many seed starting trays come with a plastic lid that works as a mini greenhouse for seed starts.
Methods to Consider
Direct Seed Method – Many seeds can be sowed directly in the garden or containers, and in some instances this may be a viable choice. One problem is that seeds and small plants are much more susceptible to falling victim to pests and predators than even two or three week old transplants. In many areas the birds or rodents will dig up seeds and have a feast before the seeds even get a chance to sprout.
It may be more difficult to care for and propagate young plants in your garden because seeds and sprouts must be kept moist and not be allowed to dry out. Another disadvantage is that there will always be some seeds that don’t make it to becoming viable plants. For uniform plant spacing in the garden it may be easier to use transplants that have already been selected as strong prospects. For these reasons and others, a general recommendation is to germinate seeds before transplanting into the garden or containers.
Using Professional Starting Trays – Some gardeners prefer to start many seeds at a time in professional seed starting trays which are plastic trays with separate compartments for each plant and a drip pan. With this method as many as three dozen seeds can be started in one try and then the weak ones can be weeded out while getting the sprouts off to a great start before planting them in the garden where they will face harsher elements and predators.
With this method it is important to use a potting mix that is specifically designed for starting seeds. These mixes are finer than even premium potting mixes and contain all the nutrition that seedlings will need to make it through their first two or three weeks. This method is certainly acceptable, but it too has some draw backs. There is a chance, even with careful transplanting, that the plants will sustain damage to the root system which will stress the young transplant. It is for this reason that the following method may just be the best one available.
Peat Pots or Pellets – Peat pots are small pots that are made of pressed peat moss. They can be filled with seed starting mix and planted in the garden when transplants are ready. There is however, an even easier alternative. Peat pellets are an ingenious innovation that consists of a compressed peat wafer inside a biodegradable mesh case. When the pellet is soaked in water it swells to five times its size and makes the ideal seed starting medium. A seed or two is simply pushed into the top of each soaked pellet and they are placed in the selected germinating location and kept moist until germination has occurred.
The pellets can even be bought with plastic trays that have clear lids and act as mini greenhouses for sprouting seeds. With these lids generally it is not even necessary to add additional water to the pellets until after the seeds sprout. Once the seeds sprout the lid is removed and sprouts are watered and grown in the trays until they form their second set of real leaves, generally two to three weeks. Then the biodegradable bags with healthy young plants can be planted in the desired garden location.
Choose a good location, select from among the alternative starting mediums and have fun starting your garden from seed this season. You will be glad you did! The following articles offer aditional resources:
Seeds for Desert Gardens I: Choosing and handling seeds
Organic Garden Seeds of Autumn: Organic Gardening Can Increase
Winter Sowing: Starting Seeds Outdoors---Gardening in the Middle
The Dirty Laundry Behind Organic Seed Germination
© Christopher J. Kline
Oct 5, 2007
With all of the advantages from starting beautiful gardens from seed it is no wonder that more gardeners are using seeds to start plants.
There is something inherently satisfying about facilitating the miracle of nature that occurs when a plant is born from seed.
Selecting a Propagation Location
The first consideration is to select a good location for seed propagation. The following factors should be considered:
Light – Once the seeds have germinated, the sprouts of most plant varieties need medium to high light in order to develop properly. If the light is too low the sprouts will become lanky which produces weak plants. Some gardeners prefer to start their seeds in a garage, greenhouse or other inside area with an artificial light source. The best alternative is to start your seeds in a greenhouse. Most greenhouses can provide ample, but slightly filtered light that is ideal for seed starting. In hot climates direct sunlight may be too intense for some seed starts to handle until the plants get their second set of leaves.
Exposure to the Elements - Seeds and young plants are particularly susceptible to damage from the environment. This includes damage caused by rodents, birds and pests as well as inclement weather. Because of this it is generally best to find a sheltered area, or start the seeds indoors. Greenhouse enthusiasts have an advantage here as well.
Temperature and Humidity - Most seeds germinate when the soil temperature is between 68 and 86°F. Depending on the soil temperature where seeds are germinated it may be advantageous to use an inexpensive soil heating cable or electric seed warming trays for starting seeds. Seeds need moist soil to germinate and the young seedlings benefit from humid conditions. Many seed starting trays come with a plastic lid that works as a mini greenhouse for seed starts.
Methods to Consider
Direct Seed Method – Many seeds can be sowed directly in the garden or containers, and in some instances this may be a viable choice. One problem is that seeds and small plants are much more susceptible to falling victim to pests and predators than even two or three week old transplants. In many areas the birds or rodents will dig up seeds and have a feast before the seeds even get a chance to sprout.
It may be more difficult to care for and propagate young plants in your garden because seeds and sprouts must be kept moist and not be allowed to dry out. Another disadvantage is that there will always be some seeds that don’t make it to becoming viable plants. For uniform plant spacing in the garden it may be easier to use transplants that have already been selected as strong prospects. For these reasons and others, a general recommendation is to germinate seeds before transplanting into the garden or containers.
Using Professional Starting Trays – Some gardeners prefer to start many seeds at a time in professional seed starting trays which are plastic trays with separate compartments for each plant and a drip pan. With this method as many as three dozen seeds can be started in one try and then the weak ones can be weeded out while getting the sprouts off to a great start before planting them in the garden where they will face harsher elements and predators.
With this method it is important to use a potting mix that is specifically designed for starting seeds. These mixes are finer than even premium potting mixes and contain all the nutrition that seedlings will need to make it through their first two or three weeks. This method is certainly acceptable, but it too has some draw backs. There is a chance, even with careful transplanting, that the plants will sustain damage to the root system which will stress the young transplant. It is for this reason that the following method may just be the best one available.
Peat Pots or Pellets – Peat pots are small pots that are made of pressed peat moss. They can be filled with seed starting mix and planted in the garden when transplants are ready. There is however, an even easier alternative. Peat pellets are an ingenious innovation that consists of a compressed peat wafer inside a biodegradable mesh case. When the pellet is soaked in water it swells to five times its size and makes the ideal seed starting medium. A seed or two is simply pushed into the top of each soaked pellet and they are placed in the selected germinating location and kept moist until germination has occurred.
The pellets can even be bought with plastic trays that have clear lids and act as mini greenhouses for sprouting seeds. With these lids generally it is not even necessary to add additional water to the pellets until after the seeds sprout. Once the seeds sprout the lid is removed and sprouts are watered and grown in the trays until they form their second set of real leaves, generally two to three weeks. Then the biodegradable bags with healthy young plants can be planted in the desired garden location.
Choose a good location, select from among the alternative starting mediums and have fun starting your garden from seed this season. You will be glad you did! The following articles offer aditional resources:
Seeds for Desert Gardens I: Choosing and handling seeds
Organic Garden Seeds of Autumn: Organic Gardening Can Increase
Winter Sowing: Starting Seeds Outdoors---Gardening in the Middle
The Dirty Laundry Behind Organic Seed Germination
Agriculture and Gardening calendar of events
© Sally Morton
Jul 12, 2006
Upcoming events in gardening. Do you have an event you would like featured? Contact me with details.
Building Healthy Communities Through Food
Start:
July 15, 2006 - 9:00am
Location:
EcoVillage Farm Learning Center, 21 Laurel Ln, Richmond, CA
Workshops for youth and adults from diverse communities who want to make changes in their neighborhoods. From starting farmers' markets to growing food, learn how to turn your ideas into action. Come and get connected to the food justice movement in California.
To get a brochure and register on-line:
www.foodsecurity.org/california/CA_Events.html
Riverside Community Garden Allotment Project
Sunday 16 July 2006, 10:00am - 4:00pm
On Sunday the 16 of July we will be completing our pond and wetland at Pontcanna Allotments, Llandaff Fields, in Cardiff, with the support of Cardiff Conservation volunteers.
We hope to encourage more biodiversity on the whole site with this valuable resource - come along and learn about how it is done.
Please come along and help from 10am to 4pm.
garden@riversidemarket.org.uk
Pontcanna Allotments, Llandaff Fields, Cardiff
Cuba Sustainable Food Systems Tour
Jul 12, 2006
Upcoming events in gardening. Do you have an event you would like featured? Contact me with details.
Building Healthy Communities Through Food
Start:
July 15, 2006 - 9:00am
Location:
EcoVillage Farm Learning Center, 21 Laurel Ln, Richmond, CA
Workshops for youth and adults from diverse communities who want to make changes in their neighborhoods. From starting farmers' markets to growing food, learn how to turn your ideas into action. Come and get connected to the food justice movement in California.
To get a brochure and register on-line:
www.foodsecurity.org/california/CA_Events.html
Riverside Community Garden Allotment Project
Sunday 16 July 2006, 10:00am - 4:00pm
On Sunday the 16 of July we will be completing our pond and wetland at Pontcanna Allotments, Llandaff Fields, in Cardiff, with the support of Cardiff Conservation volunteers.
We hope to encourage more biodiversity on the whole site with this valuable resource - come along and learn about how it is done.
Please come along and help from 10am to 4pm.
garden@riversidemarket.org.uk
Pontcanna Allotments, Llandaff Fields, Cardiff
Cuba Sustainable Food Systems Tour
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Vegetable Gardening Advice
© Sally Morton
May 29, 2006
Vegetable gardening advice on a variety of vegetable gardening topics. This blog provides links to vegetable gardening subjects I've written about at Suite 101.
For vegetable gardening advice, you can turn to numerous sources, but I hope you'll reference the articles and blogs I've created for you here on Suite 101 Vegetable Gardens. For a link and overview of all articles and subjects, click here. For timely gardening advice, keep the page bookmarked and visit often. But in case you've missed anything, here is a list of vegetable gardening topics you'll find at Vegetable Gardens:
Growing Vegetables, Part I gives a spring plant list; how-to establish a perennial asparagus bed; information on bush and pole beans and how to plant and stake pole beans.
Growing Vegetables, Part II covers how to plant sweet corn, cucumber, eggplant, melons, okra, side dressing, interplanting technique, gardening tips and recipe links for Okra, Corn & Tomatoes (a vegetable sidedish) and Cajun Gumbo. Growing Vegetables, Part III covers how to plant peas, peppers, squash, pumpkin, and sweet potato, plus gardening tips.
Gardening for Kids gives gardening ideas for delightful projects to undertake with children. Also gives links to popular sites to learn more. Be sure to see the discussion for more links.
Raised Bed Gardening I explains what raised bed gardening is, why it is desirable, and gives gardening tips to establish your own raised bed garden. Raised Bed Gardening II instructs how to create a raised garden bed, plus gardening tips, and how your raised garden beds can double as cold frames. Also see the blog Raised Bed Gardening Kits.
Learn all about tomatoes, the number one fruit grown in vegetable gardens! How to Plant Tomato and Growing Tomatoes cover all the different types of tomatoes, how to grow them, methods of staking, and increasing yield. Also see the blog Tomato, Fruit or Vegetable?
May 29, 2006
Vegetable gardening advice on a variety of vegetable gardening topics. This blog provides links to vegetable gardening subjects I've written about at Suite 101.
For vegetable gardening advice, you can turn to numerous sources, but I hope you'll reference the articles and blogs I've created for you here on Suite 101 Vegetable Gardens. For a link and overview of all articles and subjects, click here. For timely gardening advice, keep the page bookmarked and visit often. But in case you've missed anything, here is a list of vegetable gardening topics you'll find at Vegetable Gardens:
Growing Vegetables, Part I gives a spring plant list; how-to establish a perennial asparagus bed; information on bush and pole beans and how to plant and stake pole beans.
Growing Vegetables, Part II covers how to plant sweet corn, cucumber, eggplant, melons, okra, side dressing, interplanting technique, gardening tips and recipe links for Okra, Corn & Tomatoes (a vegetable sidedish) and Cajun Gumbo. Growing Vegetables, Part III covers how to plant peas, peppers, squash, pumpkin, and sweet potato, plus gardening tips.
Gardening for Kids gives gardening ideas for delightful projects to undertake with children. Also gives links to popular sites to learn more. Be sure to see the discussion for more links.
Raised Bed Gardening I explains what raised bed gardening is, why it is desirable, and gives gardening tips to establish your own raised bed garden. Raised Bed Gardening II instructs how to create a raised garden bed, plus gardening tips, and how your raised garden beds can double as cold frames. Also see the blog Raised Bed Gardening Kits.
Learn all about tomatoes, the number one fruit grown in vegetable gardens! How to Plant Tomato and Growing Tomatoes cover all the different types of tomatoes, how to grow them, methods of staking, and increasing yield. Also see the blog Tomato, Fruit or Vegetable?
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Cucumber Salad
A Marinated Cucumber Salad Recipe
Fresh cucumbers are tossed with green peppers, onions and a rice vinegar marinade in this crisp salad recipe.
Have a bumper crop of cucumbers from the farmer's market or your own garden? This cucumber salad recipe is a great way to use them. It's light, tasty and loaded with vitamin C.
Crisp and refreshing, this recipe for cucumber salad is a welcome addition to just about any meal. It travels well, making it an ideal take-along salad for picnics and pot-luck gatherings. And it is the perfect complement to everything from shrimp quesadillas to citrus baked tilapia.
Rice vinegar lends a sweet and sour taste to the marinade in this cucumber salad recipe. It has an Asian flavor. You can find rice vinegar in the Asian foods section of your local grocery store. Or feel free to substitute apple cider vinegar or even white vinegar, if that is all you have on hand. If you like spicy food, try adding a dash or two of hot sauce to this cucumber salad recipe. It works surprisingly well.
This cucumber salad is a good make-ahead recipe, too. Just put it in an air-tight container in the fridge. It can last up to three days. You can even freeze it. Just be sure to thaw it completely in the refrigerator overnight before serving.
With absolutely no fat and no cholesterol, this cucumber salad is a perfect heart-healthy side dish to complement heavier main courses. Serve this salad with eggplant parmesan for a balanced vegetarian meal or as a light accompaniment to Italian chicken saltimbocca or baked macaroni and cheese souffle.
If you like this cucumber salad, try these healthy salad recipes, too: bok choy salad, Caprese salad, broccoli slaw, carrot raisin salad, and Fuji apple walnut chicken salad.
Cucumber Salad Recipe
- 1/3 cup granulated white sugar
- 1/3 cup rice vinegar
- 1 tsp. kosher salt
- 2 cups peeled and sliced cucumbers
- 1 medium green pepper, diced
- 1 small yellow onion, diced
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar, rice vinegar and kosher salt. Add the cucumbers, diced green pepper and yellow onion, and toss to coat well. Transfer the salad to a container with a top and refrigerate several hours to allow the flavors to meld. Serve cold or at room temperature.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Per serving (based on 6): 59 calories, 0 g fat (0 g saturated fat), 0 mg cholesterol, 14 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 1 g protein, 2% vitamin A, 30% vitamin C, 1% calcium, 1% iron
The Role of Molybdenum in Agricultural Plant Production
Discipline of Wine and Horticulture, School of Agriculture and Wine, University of Adelaide, PMB 1 Glen Osmond, South Australia 5064, Australia
* For correspondence. E-mail brent.kaiser@adelaide.edu.au
Received: 18 February 2005 Returned for revision: 22 March 2005 Accepted: 2 May 2005 Published electronically: 20 July 2005
• Background The importance of molybdenum for plant growth is disproportionate with respect to the absolute amounts required by most plants. Apart from Cu, Mo is the least abundant essential micronutrient found in most plant tissues and is often set as the base from which all other nutrients are compared and measured. Molybdenum is utilized by selected enzymes to carry out redox reactions. Enzymes that require molybdenum for activity include nitrate reductase, xanthine dehydrogenase, aldehyde oxidase and sulfite oxidase.
• Scope Loss of Mo-dependent enzyme activity (directly or indirectly through low internal molybdenum levels) impacts upon plant development, in particular, those processes involving nitrogen metabolism and the synthesis of the phytohormones abscisic acid and indole-3 butyric acid. Currently, there is little information on how plants access molybdate from the soil solution and redistribute it within the plant. In this review, the role of molybdenum in plants is discussed, focusing on its current constraints in some agricultural situations and where increased molybdenum nutrition may aid in agricultural plant development and yields.
• Conclusions Molybdenum deficiencies are considered rare in most agricultural cropping areas; however, the phenotype is often misdiagnosed and attributed to other downstream effects associated with its role in various enzymatic redox reactions. Molybdenum fertilization through foliar sprays can effectively supplement internal molybdenum deficiencies and rescue the activity of molybdoenzymes. The current understanding on how plants access molybdate from the soil solution or later redistribute it once in the plant is still unclear; however, plants have similar physiological molybdenum transport phenotypes to those found in prokaryotic systems. Thus, careful analysis of existing prokaryotic molybdate transport mechanisms, as well as a re-examination of know anion transport mechanisms present in plants, will help to resolve how this important trace element is accumulated.
Key words: Molybdenum, molybdate transport, nitrate reductase, Moco, Vitis vinifera, Merlot, Millerandage, sulfate transport, nitrogen fixation, nitrogen metabolism, plant nutrition
Plant Industry - Pesticides
Tommy Gray
Director
Pesticide Division
19 M.L.K. Jr. Drive, SW, Room 550
Atlanta, GA 30334
The Pesticide Division enforces state and federal laws pertaining to the use and application of pesticides. Under the Georgia Pesticide Use and Application Act this section monitors the use of pesticides in a variety of pest management situations including commercial farming, lawn care/landscaping, forestry, public health, right-of-way, etc. It also licenses private and commercial pesticide applicators and pesticide contractors. Under the Georgia Pesticide Control Act the division licenses restricted use pesticide dealers and registers all pesticides for sale and distribution in Georgia. Additionally, the Pesticide Division licenses wood treatment facilities, inspects irrigation systems for chemigation, coordinates a pesticide container recycling program and waste pesticide collection program.
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Parkinson's disease and exposure to agricultural work and pesticide chemicals
Karen M. Semchuk, PhD, Edgar J. Love, MD, PhD and Robert G. Lee, MD, FRCP(C)
Departments of Community Health Sciences (Drs. Semchuk and Love) and Clinical Neurosciences (Dr. Lee), Faculty of Medicine, The University of Calgary, Calgary, AB, Canada; and the Centre for Agricultural Medicine, Department of Medicine (Dr. Semchnk), College of Medicine and the College of Nursing (Dr. Semchuk), University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
This population-based case-control study of 130 Calgary residents with neurologist-confirmed idiopathic Parkinson's disease (PD) and 260 randomly selected age- and sex-matched community controls attempted to determine whether agricultural work or the occupational use of pesticide chemicals is associated with an increased risk for PD. We obtained by personal interviews lifetime occupational histories, including chemical exposure data, and analyzed the data using conditional logistic regression for matched sets. In the univariate analysis, a history of field crop farming, grain farming, herbicide use, or insecticide use resulted in a significantly increased crude estimate of the PD risk, and the data suggested a dose-response relation between the PD risk and the cumulative lifetime exposure to field crop farming and to grain farming. However, in the multivariate analysis, which controlled for potential confounding or interaction between the exposure variables, previous occupational herbicide use was consistently the only significant predictor of PD risk. These results support the hypothesis that the occupational use of herbicides is associated with an increased risk for PD.
Address correspondence and reprint requests to Dr. Karen M. Semchuk, Centre for Agricultural Medicine, University of Saskatchewan. Royal University Hospital, Saskatoon, SK S7N 0X0, Canada.
Supported in part by the National Health Research and Development Program, Health and Welfare Canada, through a grant (no. 6609–1473–53) and through a National Health PhD Fellowship to Dr. Semchuk.
Received July 11, 1991. Accepted for publication in final form December 5, 1991.
Departments of Community Health Sciences (Drs. Semchuk and Love) and Clinical Neurosciences (Dr. Lee), Faculty of Medicine, The University of Calgary, Calgary, AB, Canada; and the Centre for Agricultural Medicine, Department of Medicine (Dr. Semchnk), College of Medicine and the College of Nursing (Dr. Semchuk), University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
This population-based case-control study of 130 Calgary residents with neurologist-confirmed idiopathic Parkinson's disease (PD) and 260 randomly selected age- and sex-matched community controls attempted to determine whether agricultural work or the occupational use of pesticide chemicals is associated with an increased risk for PD. We obtained by personal interviews lifetime occupational histories, including chemical exposure data, and analyzed the data using conditional logistic regression for matched sets. In the univariate analysis, a history of field crop farming, grain farming, herbicide use, or insecticide use resulted in a significantly increased crude estimate of the PD risk, and the data suggested a dose-response relation between the PD risk and the cumulative lifetime exposure to field crop farming and to grain farming. However, in the multivariate analysis, which controlled for potential confounding or interaction between the exposure variables, previous occupational herbicide use was consistently the only significant predictor of PD risk. These results support the hypothesis that the occupational use of herbicides is associated with an increased risk for PD.
Address correspondence and reprint requests to Dr. Karen M. Semchuk, Centre for Agricultural Medicine, University of Saskatchewan. Royal University Hospital, Saskatoon, SK S7N 0X0, Canada.
Supported in part by the National Health Research and Development Program, Health and Welfare Canada, through a grant (no. 6609–1473–53) and through a National Health PhD Fellowship to Dr. Semchuk.
Received July 11, 1991. Accepted for publication in final form December 5, 1991.
Wheat Topdress Additives
Producers should consider three important management decisions for wheat topdress
applications: nitrogen rate, application time, and nitrogen source. Producers may also have an interest in considering other wheat topdress issues, such as the use of various additives with their nitrogen application. Research conducted at Farm Focus in 2003 addresses the use of various products with nitrogen topdress for wheat. A brief discussion for each of these research products is presented below:
Addition of Copper
The objective of this study is to evaluate yield response of wheat to the addition of copper in a spring nitrogen topdress application. The treatments were 60 lb./acre nitrogen topdress using 28% UAN, and 60 lb./acre nitrogen topdress using 28% UAN plus 1 qt./acre Krystal Klear Cu (5% chelated copper). These two treatments were replicated three times and broadcast applied on April 2, 2003. Results from this single year study indicate no significant differences between the two treatments for moisture or yield.
Evaluation of Nitrogen Rate and Sulfur
The objective of this study is to evaluate yield response of wheat to two different nitrogen topdress rates and the addition of sulfur in a spring topdress application. The treatments were 60 lb./acre nitrogen, 60 lb./acre nitrogen with 20 lb./acre sulfur, 90 lb./acre nitrogen, and 90 lb./acre nitrogen with 20 lb./acre sulfur. The nitrogen only treatments were applied using 28% UAN liquid fertilizer. The treatments with sulfur had THIO-SUL (26% sulfur solution, 2.87 lb. sulfur/gallon)
added at a rate of 7 gallons per acre, and the amounts of 28% UAN were adjusted to compensate for the nitrogen available in THIO-SUL. These four treatments were replicated four times and broadcast applied on April 2, 2003. Results from this one-year study indicate that the additional 30 lb./acre nitrogen significantly increased wheat yields. Based on the yield differences from this trial, it would appear the sulfur did improve nitrogen efficiency at the lower nitrogen rate of application, but had no effect on the higher 90 lb./acre nitrogen application rate.
Evaluation of Nitrogen Rate and Super N The objective of this study is to evaluate yield response of wheat to two different nitrogen topdress rates and the addition of Agrotain Super N. The treatments were 60 lb./acre nitrogen, 60 lb./acre nitrogen plus Super N, and 90 lb./acre nitrogen. The nitrogen source for the three
treatments was 28% UAN liquid fertilizer. Super N was added at the rate of 3.25 gallons/ton of 28% UAN fertilizer to the 60 lb./acre nitrogen rate. Super N was not added to the higher nitrogen rate due to space limitations in the trial. These three treatments were replicated three times and broadcast applied on April 2, 2003. Results from this one-year study indicate that the additional 30 lb./acre nitrogen significantly increased wheat yields. The results did not indicate a statistically
significant yield increase from the addition of Super N to the lower rate of nitrogen.
All wheat research trials mentioned above received 250 lb./acre 11-26-15-6S broadcast at planting. Plots were planted with a John Deere 750 no-till drill on September 30, 2002 at a seeding rate of 150 lb./acre and harvested July 14-16, 2003. For complete details on the above wheat research trials (including yield data, moisture data, and harvest populations) visit http://www.farmfocusshow.com/research.htm and click on 2003 ‘Table of Contents’.
applications: nitrogen rate, application time, and nitrogen source. Producers may also have an interest in considering other wheat topdress issues, such as the use of various additives with their nitrogen application. Research conducted at Farm Focus in 2003 addresses the use of various products with nitrogen topdress for wheat. A brief discussion for each of these research products is presented below:
Addition of Copper
The objective of this study is to evaluate yield response of wheat to the addition of copper in a spring nitrogen topdress application. The treatments were 60 lb./acre nitrogen topdress using 28% UAN, and 60 lb./acre nitrogen topdress using 28% UAN plus 1 qt./acre Krystal Klear Cu (5% chelated copper). These two treatments were replicated three times and broadcast applied on April 2, 2003. Results from this single year study indicate no significant differences between the two treatments for moisture or yield.
Evaluation of Nitrogen Rate and Sulfur
The objective of this study is to evaluate yield response of wheat to two different nitrogen topdress rates and the addition of sulfur in a spring topdress application. The treatments were 60 lb./acre nitrogen, 60 lb./acre nitrogen with 20 lb./acre sulfur, 90 lb./acre nitrogen, and 90 lb./acre nitrogen with 20 lb./acre sulfur. The nitrogen only treatments were applied using 28% UAN liquid fertilizer. The treatments with sulfur had THIO-SUL (26% sulfur solution, 2.87 lb. sulfur/gallon)
added at a rate of 7 gallons per acre, and the amounts of 28% UAN were adjusted to compensate for the nitrogen available in THIO-SUL. These four treatments were replicated four times and broadcast applied on April 2, 2003. Results from this one-year study indicate that the additional 30 lb./acre nitrogen significantly increased wheat yields. Based on the yield differences from this trial, it would appear the sulfur did improve nitrogen efficiency at the lower nitrogen rate of application, but had no effect on the higher 90 lb./acre nitrogen application rate.
Evaluation of Nitrogen Rate and Super N The objective of this study is to evaluate yield response of wheat to two different nitrogen topdress rates and the addition of Agrotain Super N. The treatments were 60 lb./acre nitrogen, 60 lb./acre nitrogen plus Super N, and 90 lb./acre nitrogen. The nitrogen source for the three
treatments was 28% UAN liquid fertilizer. Super N was added at the rate of 3.25 gallons/ton of 28% UAN fertilizer to the 60 lb./acre nitrogen rate. Super N was not added to the higher nitrogen rate due to space limitations in the trial. These three treatments were replicated three times and broadcast applied on April 2, 2003. Results from this one-year study indicate that the additional 30 lb./acre nitrogen significantly increased wheat yields. The results did not indicate a statistically
significant yield increase from the addition of Super N to the lower rate of nitrogen.
All wheat research trials mentioned above received 250 lb./acre 11-26-15-6S broadcast at planting. Plots were planted with a John Deere 750 no-till drill on September 30, 2002 at a seeding rate of 150 lb./acre and harvested July 14-16, 2003. For complete details on the above wheat research trials (including yield data, moisture data, and harvest populations) visit http://www.farmfocusshow.com/research.htm and click on 2003 ‘Table of Contents’.
The Dog Still Wags the Tail, For Now
The United States remains the world's largest corn producer and currently exports about one-fifth of annual production. Corn has always been a major component of livestock feed, but is also processed for human consumption (glucose, starch, and oil) and industrial uses (alcohol and ethanol). Chemists are further developing
new industrial products from corn starch. Given the wide range of possible uses for corn products and because of tremendous technological advances, corn is at the heart of the increasing industrialization of the U.S. grain system.
Unfortunately, the market for food made from commodity corn is mature (USDA-ERS), and food uses for corn are expected to expand only at the rate of population growth. Differentiation of corn through specialty or identity preserved (IP) markets may, however, open new markets for corn. In fact, the specialty corn market increased from
3.3% of total U.S. corn in 1996 to 10.9% in 2000 (U.S. Grains Council) and because of advances in corn processing and increased consumer demand for differentiated products, these trends are expected to continue. U.S. corn growers will be faced with an increasingly intermixed market where specialty/IP corn coexists more often with the generic standard commodity corn.
Price premiums of specialty/IP corn types relative to commodity corn also vary from year to year depending on factors such as crop quality, and the presence and type of production contracts. The quality of the crop has a significant impact on price premium, particularly if specialty corn types are produced without contracts. Under
production contracts, price premiums depend on the contract type. Base price (market) plus a premium is a very common and straightforward contract type, but unfortunately leaves the producer with all price and yield risks.
The variability of price premiums from year to year, and the reliance on production contracting are also reflected in higher variability in supply and demand for specialty/IP corn compared to commodity corn. This is evidenced by findings of the U.S. Grains Council survey that show the high degree of entry and exit of farms in and out of specialty crop production. The key factor drawing farmers in and out of specialty corn is the price premium and the relative returns compared to commodity corn .
Recently, the USDA released results of a study (Elbehri and Paarlberg, 2003) to evaluate price and market behavior between commodity corn and specialty/IP corn. The objective of the study was to explore the price and market behavior of a corn market under product differentiation and identity preservation.
Results from this USDA study suggest that given its dominant market share, changes in commodity corn have greater impact on specialty/IP corns than changes in specialty/IP corns have on the commodity corn market. Specialty/IP corn markets must expand greatly before they will generate large positive spillover effects on
commodity corn. Therefore, as specialty/IP markets expand, they will have greater effects on the commodity corn market, and thus become a driving factor in corn market pricing structure. But for now the dog still wags the tail.
For more information on the article above please contact Andy Kleinschmidt of the Ohio State University Extension Office in Van Wert County at kleinschmidt.5@osu.edu or at 419-238-1214.
REFERENCES
Elbehri, A., and P. Paarlberg. 2003. Price Behavior in Corn Market with Identity Preserved Types. American
Agricultural Economics Association Annual Meeting, Montreal, Canada.
USDA-ERS Briefing Room, Corn: Background [online] http://www.ers.usda.gov/Briefing/Corn/background.htm
new industrial products from corn starch. Given the wide range of possible uses for corn products and because of tremendous technological advances, corn is at the heart of the increasing industrialization of the U.S. grain system.
Unfortunately, the market for food made from commodity corn is mature (USDA-ERS), and food uses for corn are expected to expand only at the rate of population growth. Differentiation of corn through specialty or identity preserved (IP) markets may, however, open new markets for corn. In fact, the specialty corn market increased from
3.3% of total U.S. corn in 1996 to 10.9% in 2000 (U.S. Grains Council) and because of advances in corn processing and increased consumer demand for differentiated products, these trends are expected to continue. U.S. corn growers will be faced with an increasingly intermixed market where specialty/IP corn coexists more often with the generic standard commodity corn.
Price premiums of specialty/IP corn types relative to commodity corn also vary from year to year depending on factors such as crop quality, and the presence and type of production contracts. The quality of the crop has a significant impact on price premium, particularly if specialty corn types are produced without contracts. Under
production contracts, price premiums depend on the contract type. Base price (market) plus a premium is a very common and straightforward contract type, but unfortunately leaves the producer with all price and yield risks.
The variability of price premiums from year to year, and the reliance on production contracting are also reflected in higher variability in supply and demand for specialty/IP corn compared to commodity corn. This is evidenced by findings of the U.S. Grains Council survey that show the high degree of entry and exit of farms in and out of specialty crop production. The key factor drawing farmers in and out of specialty corn is the price premium and the relative returns compared to commodity corn .
Recently, the USDA released results of a study (Elbehri and Paarlberg, 2003) to evaluate price and market behavior between commodity corn and specialty/IP corn. The objective of the study was to explore the price and market behavior of a corn market under product differentiation and identity preservation.
Results from this USDA study suggest that given its dominant market share, changes in commodity corn have greater impact on specialty/IP corns than changes in specialty/IP corns have on the commodity corn market. Specialty/IP corn markets must expand greatly before they will generate large positive spillover effects on
commodity corn. Therefore, as specialty/IP markets expand, they will have greater effects on the commodity corn market, and thus become a driving factor in corn market pricing structure. But for now the dog still wags the tail.
For more information on the article above please contact Andy Kleinschmidt of the Ohio State University Extension Office in Van Wert County at kleinschmidt.5@osu.edu or at 419-238-1214.
REFERENCES
Elbehri, A., and P. Paarlberg. 2003. Price Behavior in Corn Market with Identity Preserved Types. American
Agricultural Economics Association Annual Meeting, Montreal, Canada.
USDA-ERS Briefing Room, Corn: Background [online] http://www.ers.usda.gov/Briefing/Corn/background.htm
Agriculture Dictionary
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